Two California transplants, one Wheaten Terrier and their sort-of new life in London

Friday, 24 August 2012

St. Paul's Cathedral, the Long Version

Today a friend and I took the 90 minute tour of St. Paul's Cathedral. It was only my second time in the Cathedral, the first being the 2009 Thanksgiving service (which is held annually on, yes, Thanksgiving and rather interesting to attend if you are an American - or non-American - in London on Thanksgiving). The 90 minute tours are offered for free as part of the price of admission, however they are only given at 10am, 11am, 1pm and 2pm and supposedly to a limited number of people each time. We arrived about 10:50 and had no problem joining the 11am tour.

The tours do last almost the full 90 minutes but we saw a fair amount of the Cathedral including the crypt, the geometric staircase (apparently made famous in Harry Potter) and the quire (the spelling given on the website) which is off limits unless you are on a tour. We learned quite a bit about the Cathedral's history and saw famous art, memorials, architectural details and were given the meaning and description behind the Cathedral's various inner parts. We also saw a statue that survived the Great Fire of 1666 and one area of the wall left intentionally dirty during the restoration in the early 2000's. The tour guide was perfectly entertaining and easy to understand.

Since I haven't done the audio tour I can't compare it to walking around with an actual guide, but I would recommend the guided tour. You obviously do have the ability to interact and question the (human) guide, something you can't do with an audio guide. Assuming you have 90 minutes to spare inside the Cathedral, then the tour is worth your time. It does cost 15 pounds to get inside St. Paul's so why not get your money's worth while you are at it.

Wednesday, 22 August 2012

Foot Massage? Yes, Please!

Normally I milk my birthday. I don't have birthdays I have birthweeks. Dave is all too familiar with this phenomenon, since I usually make him eat at about six different restaurants of my choosing . However this year I was tame. I really was. I only wanted to go out to (one) dinner and to the museum. Most years I also think about doing something like a massage or getting my nails done but since I find everything like that incredibly expensive in London I usually forgo it. A while ago I happened upon some random foot massage place in Chinatown, I think I was searching for cheap massage or something (and hoping I'd get reputable results...). I had the place in the back of mind but never pulled the trigger, but this year, in honor of my low key birthweek, I decided to go for it. I found someone willing to try it with me and off we went, after I told her multiple times we could skip it if the place looked, well, sketchy.

We got there and were told that only one person was working so we decided to eat lunch and then go back when we could be seated together, You know, so we could gossip while getting kneaded. About 30 minutes later we went back and were shown downstairs where we had a really, I mean really quick foot bath. We were taken back upstairs and seated in those big black leather reclining chairs you always find really comfortable but never want to own and have in your living room. Then the fun started. We initially asked for a 30 minute massage but about 25 minutes into it we asked to extend to an hour. It was good. Hard, somewhat painful, but good. I swear my ankles and lower legs are still sore. But I walked out of there with my feet feeling loser, relaxed and able to take on the London pavement.

This place is no frills, bare bones, very little atmosphere but it's (relatively) cheap and the massages are strong. If you prefer relaxing and soft massages stay away, or tell them that, but I think the point is to really knead your feet and toes into oblivion. Thirty minutes costs 25 pounds and one hour costs 45. I do intend to go back, it's a nice Friday afternoon pick me up, and it feels sort of luxurious even though the place isn't. It's just always nice to get a good massage especially when you aren't paying an arm and a leg for it. My fellow guinea pig also liked it and agreed she'd go back in a second. I think next time I'd probably do 30 minutes, unless I had the possibility of some good gossip and chit chat ahead of me. After wearing sandals for the past week my feet already feel like they could use some work, I may head back to Chinatown sooner than I expected.

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Museum Saturday - The Birthday Edition

Saturday was my birthday. Yeah! I didn't have a lot of things I wanted to do, besides dinner out, so I dragged Dave to see the Scott exhibit at the Natural History Museum. A while ago I went to the Queen's Gallery to see "The Heart of the Great Alone: Scott, Shackleton and Antarctic Photography" which was really interesting. But a little back story first...

When I graduated from college my department's guest speaker, Jon Carroll, spoke of Shackleton's ill-fated journey to reach Antarctica. After telling us how the ship got stuck in ice, how the men were stranded, how Shackleton and a small group set off to find help and how the rescue crew found themselves close to safety but on the wrong side of a mountain that they somehow managed to climb and how at the top, not knowing what was below and unable to see in the darkness, Shackleton had the men link themselves together and they sled down to safety, together and as a group. The speech went on to talk about how opinions can hold you back, failure can make you stronger and how if you find yourself on top of a metaphorical ridge, unable to rescue yourself you should "link arms with your friends and launch yourself into the darkness, knowing that you know nothing and having the courage of your ignorance. Because that's when the fun really begins." Ever since this speech I have had a minor fascination with Shackleton and the Antarctic exploration of the early 1900's. 

So it follows that I had been wanting to see the Scott exhibit for some time, and since we'll be out of town the last days of its run, I used my birthday as an excuse to go. Overall it was interesting. Of course we went on a really, really hot day so we were able to discover that the Natural History Museum is NOT air conditioned for the most part, although the exhibit was. It would be kind of funny if an exhibit about Antarctica was stifling hot inside. Most of the exhibit is artifacts and journals from the expedition. They have a mock up of the hut where the men lived, the actual tools and gear they used, their letters, clothing, and numerous pictures taken by the expedition photographer. It was worthwhile to see it, and to understand what the men went through and had to deal with in order for Scott to reach the South Pole. And to understand what expeditions of that time period were like, for both the explorers and the people back home caught up in the glory and fame of exploration. I came out of the exhibit knowing that I am not cut out for cold weather exploration, therefore lucky for me that the South Pole has been conquered and I don't need to include that on my life list. 
 
The rest of my birthday day included pancakes (made by Dave!), taking Riley out (every day is Riley's birthday apparently) and then dinner at the Ledbury which was fantastic. I had a very nice, but hot, day, and I was glad I got to spend it with Dave and Riley. Awwww.

PS - The Scott exhibit closes September 2nd. 

Thursday, 16 August 2012

My Olympics Recap - Mostly in Pictures

The Olympics are over. Sigh. I am suffering from serious sports and BBC withdrawal.

After only getting tickets to one event, table tennis, I ended up going to three events thanks to friends and enough patience to keep hitting refresh during the online ticket resales. We saw the women's table tennis semis, I saw US v. China women's volleyball with friends and then I saw part of the men's decathlon (discus throwing and pole vault), men's 4x400 relay prelims and women's high jump prelims in the athletics competition. I was really hoping to be able to go to the Olympic park so I tried over and over again to buy a ticket when they would go on sale around 11pm each night. I managed to score one which was all I needed for entry to the park. And lest you think I left out Dave, he had his own ticket to the athletics on the final Friday night. We also watched the start of the road race, a few minutes of the men's 50k race walk and I saw the cycling portion of the men's triathlon. 
Overall I was really impressed with the London Olympics. I have never been to an Olympics so I have no point of reference or comparison, but to me the whole thing was very smooth and organized. There were volunteers everywhere, and friendly ones to boot. The tube wasn't too crowded, the city managed and the games were exciting and of course very successful for Team GB. I think it took people (Londoners) a little while to warm up to the games but once they really got going everyone was on board and appreciating the good qualities the Olympics bring to the host city and the feeling of the world coming together to enjoy sport. And of course Team GB's record medal haul didn't hurt matters! I saw an article after the games finished saying that London didn't come out of the Olympics saying "we told you we could do it" but instead had the attitude "wow, we actually did it!" And I might add, did it well.

I really enjoyed seeing the Olympic park. I thought they did a great job, but again no point of reference. The landscaping was beautiful with the different wildflowers, I was really impressed they managed to plant so many trees and flowers and timed the blooms seemingly perfectly. The park like areas were inviting, there were places to sit and shade for escaping the heat (and I needed shade, it was HOT the day I went). The venues were interesting to see and some quite appealing, such as the velodrome. It was welcoming, easy to manage, easy to get to and easy to enjoy. I had a great day and wished I could have attended more events in the park, although considering the whole long running ticket snafu I am more than happy with my attendance record. My first (and maybe only) Olympics was great and it all took place in my adopted home town! Yeah London!
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Now on to the pictures...

Friday, 10 August 2012

A Final Wave Goodbye

Lionel. When we first saw Lionel we didn't know his name, who he was, what he did or where he came from. All we knew is that he was an elderly man who sat in the lobby of his apartment building and waved to everyone who walked by. His perch was on our way to and from the tube station so we invariably saw and waved to him numerous times during the week. During much of our first year in this apartment he was mobile and would sit in a rather hard chair in his lobby for a few times and hours during the day. His chair broke, it was replaced and then a pillow showed up to make his task a bit more comfortable. One night we saw him making his way back from the Botanist and we liked to imagine that he went there for a nightcap, perhaps scotch, after his busy day of waving. He was always, always very nattily dressed. And not in a staid way, he would wear colorful ties with patterns in pinks, blues, greens, with a sport coat or three piece suit. He was always immaculately turned out for his job of waving to the neighborhood.

I think it was around Christmas last year when he disappeared. He wasn't in his chair, he wasn't waving and the lobby was empty. Finally there was a notice posted in the window saying he fell ill and was recuperating in a hospice and would welcome visitors. After a few weeks he returned. He was now in a wheel chair and obviously had suffered a stroke or something of that sort as he had some paralysis. But he still managed to come down to the lobby every day to wave, and still managed to be dressed to the nines, although sometimes his suits were covered by a large wool blanket. In his wheelchair he sat, slept, waved with one hand and continued his daily routine minus the trips to the Botanist. This continued for the spring and most of the summer. Anytime I didn't see him for a few days I got nervous, but he would most always show up one day, waving to me and to Riley as we passed by.

We returned from a weekend in France a couple weeks ago and he wasn't in the lobby the days after we got back. I got nervous but assumed he'd show up and wave soon. And then sadly, two weeks ago today another notice was posted in the window, this time informing the neighborhood that Lionel Walker Munro had passed away peacefully that morning. And the waves stopped for good. I immediately called Dave and told him and we both expressed our sadness that we'd never see him in his lobby again. Not long after the tributes started. A bunch of flowers in the lobby, then another, then another. At one point there were six or seven bouquets on the floor. An Olympic stuffed lion was also put out. And then the notes started covering the window. Notes from children, adults, shop workers from the area, shop owners, neighbors, strangers, all people who had enjoyed his waves for so long. His family put up a notice expressing their gratitude for all the support and love people were showing. It was and is (the notes are still in the window) such a touching thing to see. London feels so impersonal at times since it is such a huge and anonymous city. Yet here in Sloane Square people were drawn to a man who waved at them, who never talked to them, but who made it his job to connect to the people he saw everyday with a tiny bit of friendliness. Up until this point our area has never felt like a neighborhood since it is so transient and generally unfriendly, yet so many people appreciated what Lionel did and the neighborhood responded. This small area of London got to see him wave everyday and showed their appreciation once it stopped, together, in a neighborhood way.

I still look at the lobby every time I walk by, out of habit. I still don't know much or anything about him, but at least I know his name and can now thank Lionel for his friendly waves. I know I will always remember the man who dressed up to come downstairs to say hi to the people passing by.

Goodbye Lionel and thank you.